I’ve been looking to switch the bowden extruder for a direct drive type on my Anycubic Kobra Max. I’ve always hated the blobbing and stringing due to the bowden mechanism. After having received an LDO Orbiter v2.0 today and a bit of tinkering, I now have what I was after :).
The easiest way to install the new extruder was to simply attach it on top of the existing hotend via a small bowden tube and a coupler. I had to design a little adapter flange that attaches to the extruder and accepts a tube coupler. The extruder now dangles in the air. For now this didn’t seem to cause any trouble. In the future I might install it using a fixed bracket though.
While I was at it, I also added some additional insulation to the bed (300x300mm in size, so I had to cut a bit). I’m not sure if it really helps a lot but the bed now heats up from 20° to 60° in 3:40 instead of in 4:00. The printer also seems to consume 100mA less (very inaccurate mental averaging of power meter).
Bonus:
First functional part printed with new setup, rectifying some of the original parts issues.
Up next: Get a second Orbiter and have it feed a mixing hotend. My goal is to make nice Lampshades.
Mostly just for removal! I print a lot of giant pots for my houseplants and I’m impatient.
Let me know how the Manta goes, I have a duet wifi I was considering using for this that is currently on an old project. Has someone made a wiring diagram for the harness or are you just redoing all of the wiring? Last I looked I couldn’t find a Pinout diagram for either the harness or the board.
Huh, makes sense I guess. I print lampshades that usually remove easily due to the small surface and for small parts I often just use a tiny hammer to get them off.
As for the wiring, I was considering keeping all the existing cabling which I well made and just create adaptors from the connectors that went into the old board to the Manta. The board and connectors are labelled IIRC and in doubt my multimeter will have to be used.