Something something typical US circuits can deliver less power than typical Euro circuits. Not a lot less though. Turns out it depends, but the power rating in the EU is in theory usually about 2x that of US circuits, assuming similar current draws.
I used to own a $15 plastic electric kettle, but it died after a year or two. When I went to target to get a new (hopefully better) one, I realized I could instead buy a plug-in induction plate on sale for $50, and a plain stainless steel kettle that somehow cost only $1.50 (less than the shitty bread that I was also buying? how?). The induction plate was honestly one of the best purchases I’ve made in a long time. Sure, I have to wear earplugs to tolerate the high-pitched scream that the frequency driver makes, but it boils water just as well as an electric kettle and is also soooo much nicer to cook on than the resistive curlicue burners that came with my apartment.
regular US outlets are 120V. regular EU outlets are 240V. P=VI, so to produce the same amount of power as a 240V kettle, a 120V kettle needs to draw twice as much current.
the gauge of a wire determines how much current it can carry without setting insulation on fire. home outlets are typically wired for 15A, around the world. so in EU, 15A service can deliver twice as much power since that’s 15A of current at 240V = 3.6kW, while in the US at 120V = 1.8kW.
At least here in Australia, 15A circuits are not very common. Only one of the places I’ve ever lived had a 15A outlet in a shed, which was likely installed by the previous owner for running a welder or plasma cutter, or some other high peak power tool like that. 3.6kW is massive overkill for general household use.
The standard circuit here is 10A, which gives you 2.4kW to play with. It’s been a while, but if I recall correctly that was part of the point Technology Connections was making - that the difference isn’t actually that great between 120 and 240V countries in practice. The change to boiling time from an electric kettle was pretty inconsequential between the two.
I believe he postulated that the real reason Americans don’t have electric kettles was that they didn’t have much need for them. They mostly don’t drink tea, and their coffee is largely prepared using drip coffee makers that heat their own water.
I didn’t bring my 3Kw UK kettle over because I heard it would probably blow the circuit. But my Australian colleague who moved back over here brought his UK toaster and it actually did blow the circuit.
The majority of my circuits are 20A. The breakers with the bars between them are 240V circuits. My house was built in 2002. 20A is becoming a lot more common.
Hmm for some reason the numbers 1600 and 2000 W were rattling around my head for US and Europe respectively. I know most US appliances don’t like to pull the full 15 A because that’s when the breaker trips, but that would scale roughly the same for Europe so the power ratio should still be as you describe. I guess I either was misremembering or got the EU number from an abnormally low-current circuit.
I forgot TC did a video on this. I’ll have to watch when I have the time.
Hot plates aren’t exactly a new technology but can be useful. Just, you know, don’t put ceramic or glass directly on it. A pot of coffee you want to keep warm is fine though.
Indeed, keeping fragile hot and cold surfaces separate is just a good rule in general. The plate is induction, so there’s really no point to put glass or most* ceramics on it anyway.
I know there are induction-compatible ceramics these days, but I don’t own any.
Fair enough; given the cost, I suppose it might be. Though, I did say “screaming” (it certainly feels like it) but it is more like an extremely high-pitched whine almost out of my hearing range. My friend says he can’t hear it.
I don’t have a lot of in-person experience with induction burners to compare, but my aunt’s also has an extremely unpleasant sound (inaudible to her) yet my friend’s is fine.
Something something typical US circuits can deliver less power than typical Euro circuits.
Not a lot less though.Turns out it depends, but the power rating in the EU is in theory usually about 2x that of US circuits, assuming similar current draws.I used to own a $15 plastic electric kettle, but it died after a year or two. When I went to target to get a new (hopefully better) one, I realized I could instead buy a plug-in induction plate on sale for $50, and a plain stainless steel kettle that somehow cost only $1.50 (less than the shitty bread that I was also buying? how?). The induction plate was honestly one of the best purchases I’ve made in a long time. Sure, I have to wear earplugs to tolerate the high-pitched scream that the frequency driver makes, but it boils water just as well as an electric kettle and is also soooo much nicer to cook on than the resistive curlicue burners that came with my apartment.
A European 15 buck plastic kettle will likely also not pull more than 1500W. And probably only hold a litre. And still be overpriced.
It’s a lot less. Half of what an European delivers. So your electric kettle takes twice the time
https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2025/02/americans-gas-kettles-europe-electric-kettles.html
Yes, looks like I was misremembering some numbers like I mentioned elsewhere.
Technology Connections did a video on this rule.
regular US outlets are 120V. regular EU outlets are 240V. P=VI, so to produce the same amount of power as a 240V kettle, a 120V kettle needs to draw twice as much current.
the gauge of a wire determines how much current it can carry without setting insulation on fire. home outlets are typically wired for 15A, around the world. so in EU, 15A service can deliver twice as much power since that’s 15A of current at 240V = 3.6kW, while in the US at 120V = 1.8kW.
so EU kettles are twice as powerful, typically.
At least here in Australia, 15A circuits are not very common. Only one of the places I’ve ever lived had a 15A outlet in a shed, which was likely installed by the previous owner for running a welder or plasma cutter, or some other high peak power tool like that. 3.6kW is massive overkill for general household use.
The standard circuit here is 10A, which gives you 2.4kW to play with. It’s been a while, but if I recall correctly that was part of the point Technology Connections was making - that the difference isn’t actually that great between 120 and 240V countries in practice. The change to boiling time from an electric kettle was pretty inconsequential between the two.
I believe he postulated that the real reason Americans don’t have electric kettles was that they didn’t have much need for them. They mostly don’t drink tea, and their coffee is largely prepared using drip coffee makers that heat their own water.
I didn’t bring my 3Kw UK kettle over because I heard it would probably blow the circuit. But my Australian colleague who moved back over here brought his UK toaster and it actually did blow the circuit.
Every plug in my kitchen is 20A…USA chiming in.
The majority of my circuits are 20A. The breakers with the bars between them are 240V circuits. My house was built in 2002. 20A is becoming a lot more common.
Hmm for some reason the numbers 1600 and 2000 W were rattling around my head for US and Europe respectively. I know most US appliances don’t like to pull the full 15 A because that’s when the breaker trips, but that would scale roughly the same for Europe so the power ratio should still be as you describe. I guess I either was misremembering or got the EU number from an abnormally low-current circuit.
I forgot TC did a video on this. I’ll have to watch when I have the time.
Hot plates aren’t exactly a new technology but can be useful. Just, you know, don’t put ceramic or glass directly on it. A pot of coffee you want to keep warm is fine though.
Indeed, keeping fragile hot and cold surfaces separate is just a good rule in general. The plate is induction, so there’s really no point to put glass or most* ceramics on it anyway.
That alone would convince me to never use it again and return it as defective.
Induction’s secondary selling point is that it’s also supposed to be silent. If it’s making noise, the safety premise is deeply suspect.
Fair enough; given the cost, I suppose it might be. Though, I did say “screaming” (it certainly feels like it) but it is more like an extremely high-pitched whine almost out of my hearing range. My friend says he can’t hear it.
I don’t have a lot of in-person experience with induction burners to compare, but my aunt’s also has an extremely unpleasant sound (inaudible to her) yet my friend’s is fine.